Personalized Services for Spokane’s Savvy Cat Parent

Kittens bring so much joy…they’re playful, adorable bundles of fluff. They’re also constantly learning and exploring the world around them. So, kittenhood is a great time to help your new furry friend develop good habits for adulthood.

Below we’ll discuss what to do to prepare for a new kitten and how best to welcome them into your home.

When Can Kittens Be Adopted?
In the first few weeks of life, newborn kittens are dependent on their mother. They’re born with their eyes closed, and they spend most of their time crawling, sleeping, and nursing with their littermates. Kittens’ eyes open by 1-2 weeks of age. They start learning to walk at about 2 weeks and start playing by 4 weeks. By 8 weeks, kittens are old enough to be separated from the mother cat and adopted. Though adoption commonly occurs between 10 to 12 weeks of age.

Preparing for Your Kitten’s Arrival
Before your new family member comes home, it’s important to get the right supplies for them, including:

1. Kitten food.
2. Food and water bowls. If bringing in more than one kitten make sure to have 2 food and water bowls in different places.
3. A litter box with 1-2 inches of cat litter. If bringing in more than one kitten make sure to have at least 2 litter boxes.
4. A bed or soft blanket for sleeping.
5. A scratching post.
6. A safe spot or hiding place (such as a cat tower, a carrier with the door left open, or under the bed).

It’s also good to have cat toys on hand. Just be sure to supervise your kitty’s use of string toys or any toys with small pieces that could be swallowed. Additionally, make sure to kitten-proof your home by putting electric cords, plants, medications, and other items out of your kitty’s reach.

Bringing a Kitten Home: The First Night
Your new kitten is going to settle into your home and appreciate the food, shelter, and friendship you provide, but it may take some time. When you first bring your new buddy home, they may act a little shy. Don’t worry…this is totally normal. There’s a lot for them to take in, including all sorts of new sights, sounds, and smells. This can be intimidating and overwhelming for a tiny kitten.

Give your kitten some space, and allow them to hide if they want to. Most cats prefer to explore new surroundings in private and to have a safe spot to hide. So, start by keeping your kitten in one small room with all of their supplies, including fresh water, and no other pets or children. Then, allow them to explore one new room at a time. We recommend adding a Feliway Pheromone Diffuser to your home, at least in the area the kitten will spend the most time. Multiple diffusers can be placed around the house.

As long as your kitten is healthy and eating normally, there’s no need to rush into things…let them come to you for attention when they’re ready. Once your kitten has explored their new home and feels comfortable, you’ll start to see their true personality come out. They’ll start to play, explore, and seek cuddle time with you, and before you know it, they’ll be your new best friend!

Bringing a Kitten Home: The First Night
Your new kitten is going to settle into your home and appreciate the food, shelter, and friendship you provide, but it may take some time. When you first bring your new buddy home, they may act a little shy. Don’t worry…this is totally normal. There’s a lot for them to take in, including all sorts of new sights, sounds, and smells. This can be intimidating and overwhelming for a tiny kitten.

Give your kitten some space, and allow them to hide if they want to. Most cats prefer to explore new surroundings in private and to have a safe spot to hide. So, start by keeping your kitten in one small room with all of their supplies, including fresh water, and no other pets or children. Then, allow them to explore one new room at a time. We recommend adding a Feliway Pheromone Diffuser to your home, at least in the area the kitten will spend the most time. Multiple diffusers can be placed around the house.

As long as your kitten is healthy and eating normally, there’s no need to rush into things…let them come to you for attention when they’re ready. Once your kitten has explored their new home and feels comfortable, you’ll start to see their true personality come out. They’ll start to play, explore, and seek cuddle time with you, and before you know it, they’ll be your new best friend!

Tips for Raising Kittens: Settling In, Training, and Health Care
During the first few weeks and months, there are some important things you need to do for your kitty.

Veterinary Care
Growing kittens need vet visits every 3-4 weeks until they’re at least 16 weeks old. At these checkups, your kitty will receive vaccine boosters and parasite prevention. Click the link here to see the vaccine schedule that we use for kittens based on age.

If your kitten gets ill or if your vet has other recommendations for your individual pet, you may need additional visits, but this schedule works for most kittens.

Litter Box Training
Fortunately, potty training is pretty easy for cats. It’s instinctual, so chances are good your kitty will use the box without any training at all. If you do run into any trouble, be sure the box is convenient for your kitten to find and step into, and try placing your kitten directly in the box after meals.

Introduction to Other Cats
If you have other cats in the home, it’s best to separate them from your new kitten initially. Once your kitten has had their first vet visit and been tested for leukemia, introduce your cats slowly. Let them sniff one another on either side of a closed door for a few days before letting them interact together directly. At first face to face interaction have food bowls set up on either side of a room and let them start by eating some yummy food.

Petting & Handling Your Kitten
Once your kitten is comfortable in their new home, try to pet them, pick them up, snuggle with them, and touch their paws and ears often. This human contact will make your kitten more comfortable with being handled and will make things like nail trims easier both at home and at the vet.

Socialization
Socialization means introducing your kitten to new experiences. Introducing them to new experiences early in their life will help them grow into a well-adjusted adult cat. They’ll be less stressed or fearful when faced with a new situation.

To socialize your kitten, introduce them to new sounds like music, objects like cardboard boxes, or situations like short car rides. Offer treats or extra attention and praise for anything that might be new and scary to help them see it as a pleasant experience.

Kitten Development: The First Year
Kittens grow quickly in their first 6 months of life. Growing kittens under 6 months of age will weigh approximately their age in months. So, a 2-month-old kitten should weigh approximately 2 pounds, a 3-month-old kitten should average 3 pounds, and so on. Then, they continue to grow at a slower pace, reaching their adult size between 9 to 12 months of age. While growing, kittens should receive kitten food rather than adult food…it contains extra protein and is designed to nurture healthy development. Your vet will let you know when to switch to adult cat food. Often, this will be around 9-12 months.

Your kitten’s growth may be affected by many factors, including genetics, nutrition, parasites, illnesses, surgeries, and other variables.

So, how do you ensure your kitten is growing at a healthy rate? Try these tips:

Feed your pet kitten food, not adult food, since kittens and adult cats have different nutritional needs.

Use the feeding guidelines on your kitten food packaging as a starting point for how much to feed and adjust over time as your kitten grows (and adjust again as their growth slows down).

Feed several small meals per day, rather than one big meal.
Don’t add supplements or vitamins unless specifically instructed to do so by your vet. It’s possible to have “too much of a good thing,” and excesses of certain nutrients can cause health problems.

Monitor your kitty. Their weight and body condition will be checked at each kitten visit, and you can always call your vet’s office with questions between appointments.

What if my kitten is losing weight?
It’s always best to err on the side of caution and talk to your vet…especially if an underweight kitten also has symptoms of illness.

Kittens are still growing, meaning their immune systems are not fully developed and they’re much more susceptible than adults to parasites, viruses, and other infections (this is why it’s important to vaccinate your cat). Plus, they can become ill very quickly so it’s best to check with your vet ASAP.

Can kittens be overweight?
Yes, this is possible. Common causes include overfeeding, overindulgence in treats or table scraps, a sedentary lifestyle, or changes in weight after a spay or neuter surgery. Being overweight as a youngster often translates to obesity in adulthood, and all of the associated health risks like arthritis, diabetes, or heart and lung conditions. If you feel your kitten may be overweight, don’t restrict their food right away. Instead, talk to your vet about the best weight management plan for your fur baby, and schedule frequent weight check-ins.

Now that you know the basics of properly nurturing your kitten’s growth, you can help your kitten grow into a happy, healthy cat.

Can you tell how big a kitten will get?
Unlike dogs that can vary in size from Chihuahuas to Great Danes, cats don’t have huge variations in size between breeds. Still, though, there is some variation. Some cats can be more than twice as big as others, depending on their genetics and other factors. An average adult cat weighs 10 pounds, but some petite cats can weigh closer to 5 or 6 pounds and other equally as healthy cats can tip the scales at over 25 pounds. Get to know what’s normal for your unique pet. That way you’ll notice if your cat is gaining or losing weight.

Sexual Maturity and Spay/Neuter
Kittens can reproduce as early as 4 to 6 months of age.

As they reach sexual maturity, kittens may also demonstrate hormonally-driven behaviors, such as spraying, yowling (for females in heat), or trying to escape the home to find a mate. For all these reasons, most vets recommend spaying for female cats or neutering for male cats at 6 months of age. This procedure prevents breeding and undesirable hormonal behaviors, and even decreases the risks of certain health problems.

Enjoy Your Time Together!
Kittenhood is a really fun time, but it will go by fast. Be sure to spend quality time with your new family member and enjoy your new friendship. Your bond will strengthen with each day.

Exam: An annual physical examination to assess the general health of your pet. The doctor will evaluate your pet from nose to tail, looking for any abnormalities and go over recommended treatment / preventative plans as needed. During this visit, we can discuss any concerns that you may have, and answer any questions. This is a great time for the doctor to catch any early changes in your pet’s health.

Core Vaccinations:

• Rabies: This is a state-required vaccine that prevents against the Rabies virus. This is a “core” vaccine that is done annually. We use the Purevax Rabies vaccine that is safer for cats.
• FVRCP: This is a combination vaccine that protects against Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia; three common viruses that could be very harmful to your pet. This is a “core” vaccine that is done annually.

Lifestyle Vaccinations:

• FeLV: This non-core vaccine that your pet may need depending on their lifestyle. If your cat will be going outdoors at all or will be put into a situation where he/she will come into contact with strange cats, then we recommend that your pet be vaccinated for Feline Leukemia. If this vaccine was boostered appropriately previously, then it’s done annually.

Fecal Check: A stool sample is brought in and centrifuged with a fecal solution in order to check for intestinal parasites. We will typically send this test out to our lab, but will also do a thorough evaluation in-house if your pet is experiencing gastrointestinal issues, or if they have recently been in a shelter/breeder quarters.

Annual Wellness Labwork: This labwork checks many things to help find abnormalities in your pet’s blood and organs. It also gives us a good baseline to compare to if there are any issues in the future.

As your pet ages, they may be faced with some health challenges. We will be here for you and your pet throughout the years to help prevent, treat, and talk you through these issues. We take the time to make sure that you have the information you need to keep your pet happy and healthy.

Exam: We recommend having an exam every 6 months to assess the general health of your pet. The doctor will evaluate your pet from nose to tail, looking for any abnormalities and go over recommended treatment / preventative plans as needed. During this visit, we can discuss any concerns that you may have, and answer any questions. This is a great time for the doctor to catch any early changes in your pet’s health.

Vaccines: We will discuss the core and lifestyle vaccine options for your pet. Your pet’s lifestyle and needs may change over time – we will discuss these changes and any new recommendations during your visit.

Senior Wellness Labwork: Our lab offers a discount on healthy wellness visits to help us identify any issues early on. This labwork bundles the fecal check, heartworm and/or FeLV/FIV test, a Complete Blood Count (CBC), Chemistry evaluation, Thyroid check, and Urinalysis for dogs. These tests check many things to help find abnormalities in your pet’s blood and organs. For our senior patients, the Thyroid and Urinalysis tests are added to check some additional values that help identify problems that are more common in older pets. Preventative medicine is the best medicine, as it increases the chance of successful treatment.

As your pet ages, we will be extra attentive to the following issues; arthritis, abnormal kidney and liver function, heart disease, diabetes, thyroid problems, and hypertension. The doctor may make additional recommendations if they suspect that your pet has any of these conditions.

Nutrition is one of the most important parts of your cats health. Please click on the link to learn more about how we can help you make the best nutritional choice. Learn about cat nutrition.

There are several common behavior issues with cats that we can help with. Learn about cat behavior.

We take pride in our high standard of care and an excellent anesthetic team here at Latah Creek. We monitor your pet’s heart rate, EKG waves, SPO2 Oxygen concentration, respiratory rate, blood pressure (systolic, diastolic, and MAP), mucous membrane color, capillary refill time, and other values continuously throughout the procedure. During surgery, the doctor is always present and there is a technician solely dedicated to monitoring your pet’s vitals, recording them, troubleshooting any issues, and communicating those values to the doctor. Your pet will receive an antiemetic injection to help curb any nausea, as they are prone to feel this way after surgery. IV fluids will be administered constantly to help maintain blood pressure and keep your pet hydrated, and they will stay on constant heat support to prevent hypothermia. Once your pet is fully awake, they can go home or stay with us until closing. We will give them a small meal to get their digestive system moving and to prevent hypoglycemia, offer a small amount of water, and take them on a walk (depending on their species!). Typically we will offer them some GI canned food, as it is easy on their stomach. However, if you have a specific diet that you’d prefer we give, feel free to bring some with your pet at drop off.

Spay & Neuter Procedures: Although there are shelters that perform these procedures in bulk, we are happy to be able to offer your pet individualized care and thorough monitoring before, during, and after surgery.

Other surgeries we offer

• Mass removals
• Oral Surgery
• Cystotomy Procedure
• Foreign Body Removal
• And More!

We understand that cost is a concern when considering your pet’s medical needs. Some clinics may advertise extremely low prices for anesthesia or surgery. It is important to make sure that certain standards are being met for your pet during their surgical procedure. Here at Latah Creek Animal Hospital, you can expect a high standard of medicine for your pet. We take all necessary precautions to make sure your pet comes home happy and healthy!

Here is how we are meeting the standards for our surgical procedures.

Will my pet have pre-anesthetic labwork prior to anesthesia?

• Preanesthetic labwork helps the doctor assess the pet’s overall health, and anesthetic risk and allows them to make the best choice of anesthetic protocol. Every pet 7 years or older will receive labwork if not done in the previous 3 months. It is highly recommended for all other age pets.

Will my pet have IV fluids during the procedure?

• Every pet undergoing anesthesia will receive IV fluids to keep hydration and blood pressure stable during the procedure. This is not optional.

Will my pet receive pain medication?

• Pets perceive pain the same way as humans. Sometimes it is hard to tell when a pet is in pain. All pets undergoing surgical procedures or dental procedures with extractions will receive pain medication during the procedure and will go home with pain medication.

Will the procedure be done in a sterile surgery room?

• The most common complication after surgery is infection. Surgical procedures are performed in a sterile surgery room. The surgeon should be wearing a sterile gown, sterile gloves, a mask, and a cap.

Will my pet be monitored by dedicated staff during anesthesia?

• There will always be at least one person (in addition to the surgeon) monitoring your pet under anesthesia. This person watches for changes in heart rate, ECG, blood pressure, body temperature, breathing rate, and blood oxygen levels. At Latah Creek we have a doctor and a technician with the patient at all times.

Will my pet have dental x-rays? (Dental Procedures Only)

• The only way to find most dental disease is by taking x-rays of the teeth below the gum line. We will take x-rays as needed after a thorough oral exam.

A professional dental cleaning, done under anesthesia, includes all of the services listed below and should only be done by veterinary professionals.

Radiographs: X-rays will be done as needed based on your pet’s needs. Dogs & Cats are less likely to get cavities and more likely to have periodontal disease (bone loss, abscesses, etc. underneath the gum-line). These things cannot be fully evaluated without dental radiographs. The radiographs, coupled with the oral probing and evaluation, tell us the whole story. In order to take radiographs, they need to stay completely still and not bite down on the sensor, which can only be accomplished during general anesthesia. Additionally, we would not be able to use our ultrasonic dental scaler underneath the gumline in order to get all the plaque and tartar off if the patient were awake.

Doctor’s Oral Exam: The doctor will evaluate each tooth to identify any crown fractures, mobility, large pockets, or other abnormalities. The doctor will also do a complete oral evaluation. They will make sure that your pet’s tongue, cheeks, hard palate, soft palate, tonsils, frenulum, and facial structures are normal.

Scaling: We use an ultrasonic scaler to quickly remove the plaque and tartar on the teeth and underneath the gumline. Once the teeth are completely clean, they are polished. Polishing them will make the surface of the teeth smooth. A smooth tooth makes it harder for plaque and bacteria to adhere to. This will help maintain your pet’s dental health.

Extractions: We are in the business of saving teeth. However, sometimes a tooth is compromised enough that it is recommended to be extracted. We will try to anticipate teeth that may need to be extracted and have hat reflected on the treatment plan but often we find additional teeth that may need extracted after the tarter is removed. In the event we find unexpected problems we will give you a call and discuss this recommendation with you mid-procedure at the phone number provided on the consent form.

Periodontal Treatments: Sometimes a tooth looks like it’s on it’s way to being removed, but doesn’t have enough bone loss to warrant extraction. These teeth typically have large pockets but are otherwise healthy. Here at Latah Creek, we are able to usually save these teeth with a product called Clindoral. Clindoral is a filler that contains an antibiotic. This filler hardens to form a seal between the tooth and gum. This protects the pocket from further infection and helps facilitate gingival growth so that the affected tooth is no longer in danger of extraction.

Eye issues can be very painful. Our goal is to diagnose the issue quickly in-house so that we can bring your pet comfort that same day. Signs of an eye issue include; excessive blinking, keeping the eye(s) closed more than normal, redness, or rubbing their eye(s) and face.

Fluorescein Stain: If we suspect that a corneal abrasion/ulcer could be present, this test will give us an answer. The “stain” will only stick to the layer beneath the cornea, highlighting the problem.

Schirmer Tear Test: This will help us diagnose Dry Eye (KCS). Dry eye can be painful for your pet and usually requires continuous treatment to keep them comfortable.

TonoVet Glaucoma Screen: We are able to check your pet’s eye pressures in-house. This will help us check for pressure abnormalities in relation to glaucoma.

Ear infections can be common in some pets. Allergies, floppy ears, certain breeds, and recent moisture in the ears (from baths, swimming, or high humidity) can all cause ear infections. We recommend that you clean your pet’s ears regularly to help prevent infection. Using a cleaner for dogs that cleans and dries the ear canal is important. We would be happy to show you how to clean your pet’s ears at your convenience. Signs of an ear infection include; brown discharge from the ear(s), redness, scratching, and shaking the head.

Ear Swab Modified Wright’s Stain: Commonly referred to as an “ear cytology”. We will get a swab of the ear discharge and check for yeast, bacteria, and other signs of infection. The swab contents are placed onto a microscope slide and submitted to a 3 part stain to highlight yeast, bacteria, and other signs of infection, and then evaluated underneath a microscope. The treatment depends on what kind of bacteria we find if yeast is found, and how many organisms of each are appreciated.

Microscopic Ear Mite Exam: An ear swab is taken of the discharge if ear mites are suspected. Then, the contents are fixed to a slide with mineral oil and evaluated underneath a microscope to check for the actual mites, and their eggs.

Common skin tests include the ones listed below. We are able to do more complicated skin tests when using our outside lab, so please contact us if you have a specific test in mind. A food trial is a more detailed diagnostic test that is recommended sometimes and can vary based on your pet’s needs. If this test is recommended then you and your doctor will discuss this in detail during your visit.

Skin Cytology: This test is done to assess what kind of organisms are present on the skin so that we can treat them appropriately. A skin sample is taken with either a blank slide, an adhesive slide, a saline cotton-tipped applicator, or all three. The sample(s) are then stained using a three-part stain that will highlight any bacteria, yeast, blood cells, and other signs of infection, and then evaluated under a microscope.

Skin Scraping: You may also hear this referred to as a “mite check”, as it is done to check for skin mites. This test requires that we get a sample of hair and skin in the affected area. Unfortunately, some mites prefer to be deeper in the skin, so this test typically draws a small amount of blood. Once the sample is collected, we look at it under the microscope in order to identify any mites that may be present.

Fungal Culture: If ringworm is suspected, or if we are trying to rule out ringworm as a cause, then we will collect samples of hair and skin flakes from the affected areas and place them on a ringworm culture. The culture is then placed in a warm dark area and is monitored daily for any suspicious growth. We also can use the woods lamp if we suspect ringworm

We are able to run many different tests in-house so that we can help your pet as soon as possible with the appropriate treatment plan.

CBC: A Complete Blood Count checks your pet’s red and white blood cells for quantity abnormalities. This will help tell us if your pet is anemic, has an infection, a platelet disorder, and more.

Chemistry: This will test your pet’s blood chemistries, which will help tell us if your pet’s organs (such as their liver and kidneys) are functioning properly.

T4: This test will evaluate your pet’s thyroid function. This is especially important in senior pets.

SDMA: Checking an SDMA is a fairly new practice that helps identify any acute, or early, kidney abnormalities.

Urinalysis: A Urinalysis will test many components of your pet’s urine to check for signs of infection, crystals, evaluate pH value, concentration, and more.

Heartworm: This is a blood test that checks for the adult female heartworm antigen. If your dog has been on heartworm prevention routinely (without missing any doses), then we check this value annually. If your dog has not been given regular, consistent doses of prevention, then we will check this value prior to restarting a preventative.

Parvo: This test allows us to quickly check for Parvovirus in-house. This disease is more common in puppies but can happen at any age- especially if the pet’s Parvovirus vaccine was not boostered properly.

Lepto: This test allows us to quickly check for Leptospirosis in-house. Sometimes it is preferable that this test is sent to the lab, and that depends on the situation and your doctor’s recommendations. Leptospirosis is contracted by a pet coming into contact with infected water, such as a stagnant puddle of water that has been contaminated by wildlife.

FeLV/FIV: This is a feline specific test that allows us to test for both Feline Leukemia Virus and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus. We always test for these viruses in postadoption kittens, and again after 6 months of age. We also may test for this if your cat has a history of exposure to strange cats.

Radiographs are done in house with our digital X-ray equipment. Once they are complete, the images are evaluated by a board-certified radiologist in order to get an expert, detailed report. Your doctor will interpret the report, discuss the findings with the radiologist if needed, and then contact you with their recommendations.

Our ultrasounds are performed in house by Dr. Sammy Ramirez a mobile board certified radiologist. This gives us the flexibility to have an ultrasound performed within 24 hours depending on the needs of the patients.